Driftwood

Driftwood is one of those places that only rarely appear in the travel magazines, and maybe it’s best that the secret doesn’t get out.

The hotel is an oasis of ordered calm situated on a Cornish clifftop above a small beach. The tone is set by the owners, Paul and Fiona Robinson. They are exceptionally welcoming, with an eagle eye for detail. This attitude of welcoming attention to detail has been passed on to all the staff, who are universally friendly and attentive.

During our stay, this was best illustrated by our first breakfast. As it was a beautiful morning, we wanted breakfast on the deck, but could only find a table with one chair. As we turned round to go and sit at a table indoors, one of the staff appeared with a chair and a smile!

The food is some of the best and most complex I have ever tasted, and is in my opinion of Michelin star standard. The chef, Chris Eden, has been at Driftwood less than a year, so this might come.

Amuses bouche:
Swede veloute with cheese crisp.
Cauliflower veloute with Cornish Yarg cheese.

John Dory with St Mawes Bay prawns, peas and garlic gnocci.
Red mullet on a bed of lentils, orange puree, shallots.

Turbot, oxtail, confit of red pepper, celeriac puree, clams.
Loin and belly of pork, apple sauce, cannelini beans, girolles.
Herb crusted loin of lamb with borlotti beans, broad beans, pea puree, tomatoes.

Selection of British cheeses.

Creme brulee with blackberries, orange cardomom ice cream and figs.
Dark and white chocolate delice with ice cream.
Pineapple tarte tatin, ginger rice pudding, ginger and honey ice cream, lychees.

Wine: Austin’s Six Foot Six Shiraz/Voignier.

The extras really make Driftwood though:

• Sitting on the loungers on the deck, looking over the south Cornish coast towards Portscatho, eating cake and drinking tea.
• Breakfast on the deck in the full Cornish sun.
• A long soak in the bath after a 10 mile walk along the South West Coast Path.
• A crisp white wine before dinner.
• Waking up to the sound of the sea.

We’ll be back!